Modoc County

Modoc County is the far northeast corner — high desert, Warner Range pines, cattle country most of the state forgets. A handful of small growers tuck vineyards around Alturas and the Surprise Valley, where 4,500-foot elevation and cold winter nights push experimental cool-climate varieties into unusual territory. Tasting is appointment country; pour is from a barn, a porch, or a kitchen table. Modoc National Forest opens leashed trails through juniper and sage to granite lakes. Pair a high-desert glass with a walk at South Warner Wilderness. This is wine at the edge of the map, and a good dog is the best company it keeps.